Getting Real About Non-Comedogenic Products
Written by Lila Mabanta
If you’re an acne-prone girly like me, it may be time to start raising your awareness about the ingredients inside your skincare and makeup products. If I have a zit, I’m the type of person to add layers and layers of concealer (with powder in between) to hide it as best as I can. And there’s always a new product that goes viral, is recommended by a friend, or even is marketed as clean, that lures you into trying it. However, if acne is something you regularly deal with, it’s time to start remembering that not every product is fair game, and that you might need to be a bit more mindful about ingredients.
So, how do you go about understanding ingredients? The long list of words is extremely intimidating. Lucky for you, technology can serve us once again! I’ve begun using the app “Acne-Safe” and the website Acne Clinic NYC, where you simply copy the ingredients listed on the website and paste them into their site, and they’ll highlight the ingredients known to clog pores. If a product doesn’t have any pore-clogging ingredients, it’s considered non-comedogenic.
As I quickly mentioned, many brands are marketed as clean and acne-safe, however receive red highlighted ingredients that mean pore-clogging when pasted into these checkers. This is because the FDA doesn’t regulate the term “non-comedogenic”. Thus, a brand can call a product non-comedogenic, non-pore clogging, and acne-safe with no actual proof or regulated testing.
This information came as an epiphany to me this new year, when I saw a video stating that my ride-or-die concealer, Shape Tape Ultra Creamy (and the original) by Tarte, has pore-clogging ingredients. Seriously, I’ve been using Shape Tape for the majority of the time I’ve worn makeup. With these sites, I checked all my current products and found a few of them to contain clogging ingredients: my concealer, my loose-setting powder, my primer, and my nighttime moisturizer.
For my moisturizer, I’ve simply been using my morning moisturizer at nighttime too, which isn’t too hard of a switch. However, for the rest, I began, and am still in, my so-called journey of finding my perfect, acne-safe products. I won’t lie though, it’s not that easy, and probably won’t be that perfect. Essentially, I’ve been taking great advantage of Sephora’s return policy– 30-day free return with opened makeup as long as you don’t bring it back literally ruined (and from 31 to 60 days, it turns into store credit). So, let me take you on a little description of my journey so far.
I won’t lie, at first, I strayed away from the rigidness I’m proclaiming here. I went into Sephora with the intention of trying the Rare Beauty Liquid Touch Brightening Concealer as it rates fully non-comedogenic. However, after getting color matched and looking through all the testers, I discovered they don’t have one that matches my skin tone with its correct undertones. So, the Sephora employee led me to two almost perfect color matches, at Kosas and ILIA. Both of these brands’ concealers don't check as non-comedogenic even though they’re marketed as so. However, we know that marketing and salespeople can be very persuasive, and so I went with it. I couldn’t decide which to go with, because it seemed that the ILIA concealer was a closer color match, but the Kosas was more hydrating, and my skin tends to get dry in the winter. So, confirming their return policy, I decided to get both and wear them both throughout the week. Testing to see if they broke me out was a little flawed though, as one, I was trying to do them every other day, and two, there are so many other factors that can go into causing breakouts as well.
However, I ended up returning them both, because even besides the potential acne-causing, I didn’t like the texture they gave as the day went on. On me, a few hours into wear I’d see the product caking up into dots of patchiness on my chin and cheeks, which I’d never experienced with Shape Tape, and as well didn’t have the most coverage. I also did get some breakouts, which I felt were related, however I can’t completely confirm.
So, next, I tried the Dior Forever Skin Correct Concealer, as it is fully non-comedogenic, matched well, and come on, feels boujee. In my experience, its full coverage claim worked much better with my Colourpop brush than my Real Techniques sponge that I always use. I really tried to like it. However, I again, saw it caking up throughout the day, just like the previous two. I also developed one of those big, deep pimples, which again, I can’t confirm, but I didn’t think it was a coincidence. So, unfortunately, I returned it as well.
After this, I will admit I felt a little defeated. I went back to using my Shape Tape as it was the only other concealer in my possession to avoid the Dior one. And might I say, my skin started to relax again (I also added in Krave Beauty’s Oil La La which may be helping). So, I felt, is this even necessary? Because it’s not a true one-way answer. Everyone’s skin is different, and everyone reacts differently to products and ingredients. So I’ve begun thinking that maybe even though Tarte’s isn’t by-the-book clean, maybe it still works with my skin. So, just today, I went into Ulta with the intention of buying a new one as my current bottle is almost empty. However, I think the universe is trying to keep me on this clean-seeking journey, as they didn’t have my correct shade in stock. The employee led me to the Fenty We’re Even Hydrating Longwear Concealer and found my color match. It had ranked the best in her internal app checker, and it checked out clean on my app as well. So, I bought it and will be testing it out. So, let’s pray that our girl Rhianna does me no harm. If this one doesn’t work out, I have my eyes on the OG Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer, and the Lancome Teint Idole Ultra Wear All Over Full Coverage Concealer, which are both non-comedogenic as well. However, this will again be a test of whether being perfectly non-comedogenic is actually the best fit for my skin or not.
On the same theme, my loose setting powder LAWLESS Seal the Deal had one ingredient that rang red– starch. However, after trying and not liking the only fully clean powder on Sephora’s website, the Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Microfinishing Loose Powder, I returned it too. Personally, it was too drying and gave flashback (that powdery white cast in flash photography). So, I decided to stick with my LAWLESS power, as besides that it’s clean and talc-free, and I’ve never noticed a problem with it before.
So, I do believe if you have acne-prone or sensitive skin, you should be mindful of this, especially with overflows of clogging or questionable ingredients. However, I don’t think it necessarily means any product that isn’t completely clean is evil. As I said, I still may return back to Tarte’s Shape Tape
.
To be on the safe side though, I’m going to list some of the most common pore-clogging ingredients I’ve noted: algae extract, cocoa butter, coconut oil/butter, cotton seed oil, kelp, lauric acid, seaweed, shea butter, spirulina, soybean oil, and a lot more here. And additionally, watchout for fragrances, which can be quite irritable for skin in general (and I mean, who is really sniffing your face anyways).
If those ingredients above caused an unfortunate awakening, here are some of my personal recommended products that are non-comedogenic approved:
Makeup
Elf Power Grip Primer / +4% Niacinamide: I’ve been using the Niacinamide version and so far I’ve noticed it has definitely helped the texture and longevity of my makeup throughout the day, and no apparent breakouts. This is considered a dupe of the Milk Makeup Hydro Grip Primer, which is also non-comedogenic (I’ve never tried it before, so take that from the internet, not me). Elf also has a large range of non-comedogenic products, which truly cements them as That Girl of the makeup world.
NYX Dewy Finish Long Lasting Makeup Setting Spray: This is my ride-or-die setting spray. I’ve tried other more expensive ones, but this works just as well. I use the matte one as well, depending on what’s in stock. However, I prefer the dewy for a little bit more glow.
Skincare
Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel: I’ve been using this cleanser morning and night for about six months now, and I’ve definitely noticed that it has helped in preventing breakouts. I also love the bottle, because the 250 mL lasts a good amount. And although the bottle is big, it goes with me to any sleepover.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum: Because The Ordinary’s products are so simple and straightforward, I’d be surprised to find a pore-clogging product of theirs, a.k.a., always a classic. This product, full of niacinamide, is great for reducing acne scarring.
Krave Beauty Oil La La: As mentioned above, I’ve begun using this acne-targeting oil (I was persuaded on TikTok Shop), and after the breakouts from my concealer trials and errors, it definitely reduced the redness, size, and occurrences of breakouts already. It’s also helped keep my skin hydrated and has given it a bit more of a healthy glow.
Elf Holy Hydration! Illuminating Eye Cream: You might not need to worry about breakouts much under your eyes, but you never know. I’ve had my fair share of trying more expensive under-eye creams because my under-eye can get really dry. However, I’ve noticed no problems with this Elf one, because once again, we love Elf.
Curology Gel Moisturizer: I’ve been subscribed to Curology’s custom acne treatment for a few years (it’s definitely helped my skin) and I was so excited when they began expanding to over-the-counter products easily available in Target. This moisturizer is light (which makes the Krave Beauty Oil La La a great addition to my routine) but still hydrating.
La Roche Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF 60: La Roche Posay has many non-comedogenic products, which is amazing as they work really well. This face sunscreen does the job and gives you a cute little glow along the way.
From time to time, ingredients do change, so this isn’t written in stone, and again proves that “non-comedogenic” has its nuances. With all this information, though, I hope it gives you some guidance if you’re acne-prone as well. Remember though, I’m not an expert, just a girl with a personal connection to the matter. And, remember, above all else– acne is normal, and your skin does not define your beauty.
Be Well,
Lila
